Stockholm Fashion Week

11-14 February

It was a cold, extremely windy Copenhagen that welcomed the Swedish Fashion Council but it was the city's complete infatuation with fashion and not the cold that brought Copenhagen to a standstill. Getting between all the shows in the cold was no problem since shuttle buses serviced CIFF, GALLERY and CPH VISION with departures every 20 minutes. Visitors could also book chauffeured cars to take them around. As usual, the buses made the trip between CPH VISION and Terminal 2.

CIFF

CIFF counted 27,650 visitors this year, a 7% decline compared to February 2009. The trend show had been moved to the C Hall and concentrated on four different themes: Body Performance, Rustic Roots, Dark Poetry and Trady Twist. Instead of the traditional catwalk, the shows crisscrossed over an open space, originating from four different structures. Trend spotting CIFF: Bold colours coupled with non colours like grey with orange, and many accessories including handbags, shawls, gloves and leg warmers enhanced the look. Knit dress tunics, cropped pant legs, small fur-like boleros, the jumpsuit and soft drapings. Black/black, dark on dark, and contrasting black/white.

GALLERY

Well before the trade fair opened, the place was packed with people who wanted to register. GALLERY saw an increase in the number of visitors which this February totalled 12,400. Inside the fair, reports seeped out that orders had been placed, some of which stemmed from new customers. But the main topic of discussion regarding this show was that the major labels opted to abandon the Gallery in favour of Terminal 2 this year. Acne's participation at Gallery was not in the form of a physical presence; instead, Acne's phone number and logotype was written on the floor in the large centre aisle and a film was projected onto a large screen above. Acne chose instead to unveil its collection at an external showroom. Trend spotting Gallery: Rather dark colour schemes with elements of red, dark green, mustard and deep purple. Classic plaid lumberjack shirts vs. slim blouses in silks. Several exhibitors showcased suits and harem pants with shorter legs.

CPH VISION

Also this year, a giant tent was erected outside the fair to welcome visitors, all 12,404 of them. CPH Vision opted to hold its trend show at the spectacular Copenhagen Opera House, showing its collection on Wednesday already. Saturday’s show was for Designers Nest, a competition that originated in 2003 in which select students completing their final year have the opportunity to display their contributions and present them in a show. This year’s winner was Mille Marie Jensen from the School of Design in Kolding. Exhibitor’s reacted to the meagre number of people in the aisles and stands, as did the Fashion Council. We were also impressed by the numerous stands displaying jewellery in the Öksne Hall this year. Otherwise, the clothes collections showcased pale colours, grey, skin tones but also black. Trend spotting CPH Vision: Androgyne suit trousers, accentuated waists and shoulders combined with glossy materials.We also noted leopard and Inca patterns.

TERMINAL 2

Terminal 2 added 1,000 sq m and created an area called The Boiler, a handpicked venue of exhibitors showing the best denim and streetwear labels available. Like last year, Terminal 2 attracted prominent brands and was graced with 12,966 visitors. For the very first time it also had its own trend show which proved to be as popular as The Boiler. Exhibitors at Terminal 2 were very optimistic and many felt that this was a growing fair. Trend spotting Terminal 2: A colourful fair in pink, red, green and blue. Patterns included stripes, plaids and even Inca influences.

SHOWS AROUND TOWN

Besides visiting all the fairs, the Fashion Council also managed to see a few of the week's many shows. Below is our report from two of them.

by MARLENE BIRGER

On a leaf-covered catwalk in explosive autumn colours, by Marlene Birger unveiled her autumn and winter collection in her usual roomy facilities on the outskirts of Copenhagen. However, the catwalk was not elevated, making it difficult for all the visitors to see the collection. As usual, the collection was very feminine in mutes like green, black, brown, putty and metallic. The fabrics were lightweight and we saw an abundance of feminine blouses paired with suit trousers or harem pants which were a bit shorter in the legs. Big knit cardigans, knee-length coats, fur vests or sequin jackets were worn over blouses accompanied by roomy, oversized handbags and long necklaces, some in the form of small mobile phone-like
bags.

In terms of headwear, we saw big fur hats but also Emil caps, while footwear included boots, pumps and bootlets in dark shades. The collection consisted mostly of clothes in solid colours only.

MINIMARKET

In complete contrast to Marlene Birger, colours and patterns abounded here. The show was held at Rådhusplatsen and it was one colourful event. Minimarket's palette includes bold purple, mango and heavy peach paired with green details and accessories. For inspiration, the sisters worked with totemism and Seminole, an Indian tribe. All the models had painted faces while triangles and cubes formed the basis for patterns and prints seen on jackets, handbags and shoes.

The shoes had wedge heels, all-over platforms (platform along the entire length of the shoe), original details, crêpe soles, draping, flat androgyne shoes and materials included suede, patent and croc. Also over-the-knee boots in both solids and block patterns were shown. New this season was the 13 cm crêpe wedge. Belted waists were popular both on sizable fluttering garments, to blouses worn with a tight short skirt and to outer coats. The characteristic felt hat
was also shown in this collection, but this time also in wood, Swedish aspen.

By Sara Winter and Jessica Korondy for the Swedish Fashion Council Photos, by Malene Birger och Minimarket: Copenhagen Fashion Week